Y'all are not being fair to Pharrell
With what Virgil has done for Louis Vuitton, he's got big shoes to fill, but Pharell decided not to. He has got his own plan.
“I’m not a fashion designer… A creative director for sure.”
~ Pharrell Williams on The Run-Through With Vogue
The past few days I have been consumed by the conversations around the latest Fall 2024 Louis Vuitton Menswear show, by ‘conversations’ I mean comments made under posts that talked about the show, and it is frustrating. Borderline infuriating.
Here is a summary of my feelings about the latest show: elementary but effective. While I do think that Pharrell isn’t letting out all of his creativity, I would not say I hate or dislike the effort. If anything, I think it was a solid effort.
I think the general source of hate towards this collection or Pharrell the creative director of LV comes from the comparison of Pharrell and Virgil Abloh, and how ‘simple’ the designs are. As mentioned in a video I made about his first collection, comparison is inevitable. However, we should not be blinded by comparison or hold Pharrell to Virgil’s standard when they are trying to do different things, hence the subtitle.
I don’t think the discussions are being fair to Pharrell at all as I sense ignorance. While I am not the biggest fan of him, nor would I call myself knowledgeable about his music career and impact, I sure understand an overview of Pharrell Williams artistic direction: keep things simple and straighforward; effectiveness over being decorative. From his iconic 4 count producer tag and his Billionair Boys Club and ICECREAM clothing brands, to the famous Human Made partnership with NIGO and his Human Race skincare brand, simplicity pierce through all.
To clarify, ‘simplicity’ here means to cut down the layers between the communicator and the receiver, which means that ‘simplicity’ doesn’t vouch for a simple design, but the communication of design and/or music is simplified. Hence, the usage of the word ‘straightforwardness.’
Once again, not at all claiming to understand Pharrel’s work through and through, but my interpretation of this collection does seem to be led by the feeling of ‘yea that’s pretty easy an the eye and I love it.’ Similar to how I see Stella McCartney’s work.
To some, this simplicity, this straightforwardness in his creations may come across as cheap or lazy, which is a big no no in the fashion world. Or is it? Is it forbiddened to be simple and straightforward in the industry? Is that something objectively despised on or is it the online community that’s the actual furious one?
The FW24 Louis Vuitton collection is really on the nose I have to say, it doesn’t take much fashion knowledge nor cultural sophistication to sus out what Pharrell is trying to do with this overtly cowboy-esque collection. Mixed with inspiration and creation from the indigenous community, the end product isn’t the most creative collection of all time. Some might say it’s offensive to the indigenous community, but that’s not my place to comment on. I, however, found the collection to be quite good looking. I saw someone commenting on Louis Vuitton’s post on Instagram saying that they really ‘enjoyed the Wrangler x RL x Carhartt show, and I laughed because it’s true! But can we also take some time to ask the question, what’s wrong with that?
What’s wrong with combining these three brands and make them Louis Vuitton’s? Is it because it doesn’t align with LV’s luxurious image?
Oh! The argument is that “we’ve seen this before, boring.” So repetition is the real culprit. Said by the same group of people that hyped up Phoebe Philo’s comeback just to hit us with the blandest creation. But wait, it’s Phoebe Philo! That’s makes it alright.
Said by the same group of people that hated on Sarah Burton because what she created isn’t on par with McQueen’s creation.
Said by the same group of people that hated on Sabato De Sarno’s debut with Gucci because they were consumed by the comparison with Alessandro Michele’s work without realizing Sabato’s direction is completely different and is going his own way. I can keep going.
Repetition is indeed boring and that’s a fair argument, but I just can’t wrap my head around how this is repeating beyond the realm of reasonable repetition. Nothing is and can be net new, someone is always innovating from what’s being done in the past. If this is Pharrell repeating everyone’s that’s ever done cowboy theme, then I want the price of Raf Simon’s Riot bomber to drop by 80%, and I want Hedi Slimane’s skinny suits to receive less praise. Y’all can’t pick and choose.
One thing I do agree with the internet is that, there isn’t much designing, this is just slapping on prints. I would love to see more of his wilder idea brought to life through Louis Vuitton’s design team, but this still isn’t enough for me to chalk the collection up as ‘a lack of effort.’
It is also important that we remind ourselves that Pharrell isn’t a trained designer, and Bernard Arnault knows. I don’t think he’s ever done patternmaking nor cut and sew lessons, at least not known for it. LVMH wanted him the same reason they wanted Lee and Matthew Williams at Givenchy, and Virgil at LV, to instill young blood and visions into the brands. Undoutedly, Pharrell has established himself as a pioneer in many facets and the only way to fulfill his creative directive role is to do what he do best, bring his uniqueness to the brand and communicate through bold patterns and prints.
Pharrell is doing what he knows best without trying to appease the crowd, without trying to mimic Virgil nor pretend that’s what he wanted to do.
“Well then he shouldn’t be the creative director.”
Once again, why not? Because his work isn’t fulfilling your high fashion thirst? Because it isn’t sophisticated enough? Feel free to disagree, debate, discuss about his legitimacy as a creative director at Louis Vuitton or if his creative style is healthy for Louis Vuitton. However, don’t discredit someone and disregard the good work they are doing just because their work doesn’t align with what you look for in a high fashion brand.
Some of you might find this position I’ve back myself into to be quite contradictory with the previous piece I’ve written where I expressed negative feelings towards senseless references in fashion in order to drive a certain narratives. Let the record reflect that what Pharrell is doing here isn’t senseless, it is quite frankly at the forefront of his vision, to use themes and references to being out Louis Vuitton’s long history of a luxury travel brand.
Peace.